Interview Andreas Wickhoff, Maximilian Glatz
Dear Andreas, dear Max, let’s start at the very beginning. When and how did your love of wine ignite and when did you realise that the subject would accompany you for the rest of your lives?
AW: There is a strong connection to Bad Gleichenberg. On the one hand, my older brother Harald, who also went to school at the TSBG, introduced me to wines from various countries. That must have been when I was about 17 years old. Then I also had my first wine book, which I had started to study more closely: “Wine Course” by a certain Jancis Robinson MW OBE. I wanted to find out more about her training programme and thus had my first contact with the Master of Wine course.
In 1995, I started the College of Tourism and Leisure Management, where I met one of my best friends to this day, who is also 100% passionate about fine wines. Together with him, I have tasted some of the best wines in the world.
MG: Location Venice South, around midnight, in a secret session in preparation for the young sommelier training under Mr Ebner, Sokoll and Rosegger. The rivalry in the course of countless blind tastings fuelled the embers and the fire of passion quickly came of its own accord.
Does the love of wine unite people across all professions, social classes and cultures? What do you think is the reason why this drink and people’s passion for wine is so great?
AW: Wine is absolutely a cultural asset, it has an enormous historical and religious significance in many places around the world; it is more than just an alcoholic beverage. The motto of the Institute of Masters of Wine is: “Vinum exhilarat animum” – wine cheers the soul, the heart. It really does, enjoyed with moderation for sure.
The current trouble spots on our planet are omnipresent. Our Ukrainian importer gets on well with our Russian importer, they exchange ideas, talk to each other about the world of wine and more – they would never seek an argument. Wine can unite.
Wine often reflects its origin – regions/areas/vineyards are visually represented in one when you enjoy truly great wine that clearly shows the signature of the place of birth. That’s the fascinating thing about this beverage that inspires and unites so many different cultures around the world.
MG: The reasons are certainly specific to each individual. On the one hand, wine presents itself as a centuries-old cultural asset that is closely linked to its origin. The areas of geology, history, agricultural policy, climate and its changes as well as traditions and customs are intertwined with this. Learning about wine also enriches general knowledge, which can be useful in social interactions. On the other hand, wine, like any other alcoholic beverage, gives the mental state of intoxication and is perhaps just the means to an end for many. I think the truth lies somewhere in between.
The Bad Gleichenberg tourism schools show a love of wine in many ways: the Styrian Wine Trophy, which is organised at the school every year, the school’s own wine cellar, the young sommelier training and the cooperation with the Silberberg fruit and viticulture school are the cornerstones of this.
In your opinion, how could the focus on wine be deepened in the training programme, how could it be made even more of a USP?
AW: Training and teaching are very important, especially for wines that are less well-known internationally. To a certain extent, this still applies to Austrian wine. In addition to learning tasting techniques and specialising in the different wine-growing regions, a business aspect would perhaps also be interesting in training. What does it cost if I want to make a wine myself? What parameters need to be defined? What style of wine has market potential in the future and where can I sell it? Answers to such questions are also relevant if you want to gain a foothold in the wine business.
MG: The catering industry is currently in a state of flux and is in the process of reinventing itself. However, wine and its professional service will always remain a cornerstone, which is why wine-specific training should be given high priority. The training programme for young sommeliers could be supplemented with the Sommelier Austria and Sommelier Diploma courses in cooperation with the Styrian Business Promotion Institute. Furthermore, I also see potential in a deepening of personality development and sales strategies in customer meetings, i.e. optimising soft skills. As a sommelier, you find yourself in the equilibrium of consultant and salesperson – in view of the healthy profitability of a wine cellar, which is of central importance for restaurant owners.
Andreas, you are currently one of 3 Austrian Masters of Wine. If all goes well, Max will soon be the fourth.
How did you decide to embark on this challenging training programme and how do you remember this time?
AW: I’m really happy for Max – and what an achievement: the guy managed two of the three difficult hurdles in one go! Châpeau!
The first impetus was actually the book “Wine Course” by Jancis, who I can now call a good friend…and that is something special for me. I hardly know a more profound, objective person in wine journalism than her.
I thought to myself: “If I ever really had the chance to start this degree programme, I would at least like to give it a try.” No sooner said than done: I started in 2008 and graduated in autumn 2012 at Vintner’s Hall in the City of London. I had to sacrifice many hours for this, it was a very intense time, but I also got to know so many great people from all over the world. Without the support of my wife and closest friends, it might not have been possible.
Max, you are in the final exams for the Master of Wine programme. What is the programme like, what are the biggest challenges and hurdles, and what are the most important personal insights you will take away with you?
MG: Much of the course is self-taught. This requires discipline, self-control, consistency and strong intrinsic motivation, which can be a hurdle for some people. However, you don’t go down this path alone, as the international degree programme offers you the opportunity to network with students from a variety of nations and make friends. Looking back, the best moments were when people of different ethnicities, united by the same passion, pulled together to achieve the ultimate goal of becoming a Master of Wine. These were special moments full of poetry, philosophy and lots of good wine.
What advice would you give TSBG students who are considering a career path similar to yours and want to try their hand at the Master of Wine?
What do you need to bring with you, what would be important do’s and don’ts?
AW: Follow your passion and realise your dreams! As our English professor Parmetler used to say: “The world is your oyster.”
Have a plan, make compromises/renouncements, work purposefully on the project and also say to yourself: in the end it is “only” an exam. Some of my colleagues failed because of the pressure they put on themselves.
MG:
A willingness to work hard! The degree programme demands a lot from you and puts a lot of pressure on your private life in the final exam phase. During the actual exam, you have to keep cool for 4 days in a row and taste precisely under time pressure. Being able to speak English is also a great advantage, especially due to the completely different essay format that you have to use for exams. I also recommend going into the programme without any preconceptions. A supermarket wine has the same justification on the market as a First Growth from Bordeaux. The correct tasting of quality is a central component of the practical examination.
Last question: What is your favourite wine at the moment?
AW: In addition to local wines, my cellar is dominated by Burgundy and champagne. You can always enjoy the latter, as Lili Bollinger repeatedly emphasised. At the moment, however, I really appreciate “island wines” – from Etna Bianco or Rosso from Sicily to Corsican Niellucio and Listan Blanco from Tenerife – there are some really exciting things to choose from!
MG: The range of wines in my wine cellar is always changing. There are only a few classics that have a fixed place, including a good bottle of Riesling Ried Heiligenstein from the Bründlmayer winery.
And Uhudler.